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Washington: Volcanoes, Water and Salmon

10/24/2015

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The West is tied to water.  People, trees and crops across southern Washington are literally attached to the major rivers of the Columbia and the Snake that weave along the state.  Without these sources of water, the Palouse region and the neighboring scablands would be barren, regardless of the quality of the soil.  In contrast, once the Cascades are reached the open lands of central and eastern Washington are gone, steadily replaced by a thicker and thicker weaves of evergreens.  First Ponderosa Pines and then Douglass Firs and Western Hemlocks dominate the landscape and give testament to the amount of rain these areas normally receive.
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“Normally receive” definitely are the words to use, for, like the rest of the region, the Northwest is in a drought.  Wildfires, a natural part of the ecosystem in central and eastern Washington, raged more dangerously than ever this year and influenced our more southerly route passing dry lakefront campgrounds, marinas extending their docks out into half-full reservoirs and four-wheelers tearing up the dust as they raced across the dry lake bottoms.  The Northwest should be wet.  They depend on the wet and, specifically, they depend on the snow to provide a continuous melt during the summer months, but last winter was a warmer and drier winter that brought some rain but didn’t bring snow.   Mt. Rainier recorded a record low snowfall (under 300”) as its glaciers did not receive their normal snowpack padding, which in 2011 was 25 feet deep at a place called Paradise on Rainer’s southern flank.
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Camping in Mt. Rainier National Park, a short bike ride from the Grove of the Patriarchs, we drove up to Paradise to start one of our favorite hikes of the trip: the Skyline Trail.  This well-used loop trail meanders along the southern side of Mt. Rainier and is the starting point for climbing the mountain itself.  The upper reaches of the trail were largely snow-free this year and allowed us to sneak further up on another trail towards Camp Muir than would normally be possible without extra gear.  The views, dominated by the majestic Mt. Rainier and its fracturing glacier fields on one side and the continuing Cascade Range on the other, including Mt. Adams, the Goat Range, Mt. St. Helens, and the pointed Mt. Hood, were astounding.
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One striking thing that we were reminded of by looking across towards Mt. St. Helens is that the Cascade Range is a range of active volcanoes and Mt. Rainier is, potentially, the most dangerous of them all.  The reason lies with a phenomenon called a lahar.  Super-heated, volcanic debris flows that have periodically poured off the mountain when it erupts and raced down into the Puget Sound.  The model of the region in the visitor center shows their historic paths running right through present-day Tacoma and Seattle.  This may seem something to not overly worry about but when we visited our good friends from Malaysia, Vicki and Amir Salim, Vicki pointed out that lahars were one of the reasons they chose to live in Olympia, which lays outside these lahar paths.
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My cousin Mary-Kate, and her husband Phil, also live just outside these paths in Issaquah, and it was such a delight seeing her wonderful family as they brought us to their town’s salmon fish hatchery.  It was great seeing Luke and Natalie run down to the river to show the boys the salmon swimming upstream and then bring us over to the fish ladders and tanks of the hatchery.  Just two weeks earlier, Luke and Natalie’s school had their annual salmon festival at the start of the run and their infectious enthusiasm was still at a high.
 
We continued to learn a lot about salmon throughout our time in the Northwest, from Amir’s work inspecting commercial salmon boats coming back into Puget Sound, the continuing restoration of the Elwha River’s salmon runs after its two dams were removed, to our wonderful walks in and talks with Park Rangers at the Olympic National Park Headquarters and the Hoh Rainforest.  Just like wolves, salmon are the keystone species to this entire ecosystem directly feeding over 100 different animals and insects and thereby influencing and supporting this region’s amazingly rich biodiversity.  It all seemed to come full circle when Vicki joined us in a visit to Wolf Haven, a reserve south of Olympia that cared for a variety of North American wolves, and the tour discussion turned to trophic cascades, keystone species and the importance of both salmon and wolves.
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Our time in the Northwest, punctuated by visiting family and friends, taught us much about the region’s dynamic environment that shaped Native American tribes for centuries and continues to shape modern society.  It was wonderful to witness sustainability, restoration, and preservation efforts throughout the region as there seems to be an awareness of the importance of stewardship of our natural resources.  Writing this from the desert area of the Great Basin, the progression of storms in the Northwest has started its annual rain and snow with a deluge, and we hope that this starts to replenish their snowpack, refill their reservoirs and jumpstart the winter salmon runs.  Each region of our country is dominated by and proud of their own history and natural features and here in the Northwest it has and will continue to revolve around volcanoes, water and salmon
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Glacier National Park and Beyond

10/10/2015

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I can confirm that there’s no better way to visit a national park then when you go with a biologist.  And it was our luck that my second cousin Marcel not only lives in Missoula, but is a biologist, and was happy to join us on our four day trip to Glacier National Park.  While I had the opportunity to do an amazing back-country camping trip in Glacier twenty-two years earlier when I was fresh out of college, I am pleased to say that within our first few minutes in the park it seemed that little to nothing had changed and Glacier was perhaps even more beautiful and impressive in its grandeur. Marcel’s knowledge of the area combined with his enthusiasm and eagerness to share it with us made the trip nothing short of spectacular.  His keen tracking instincts and enormous telescope enabled us to see a variety of animals including mountain goats, big horn sheep, many variety of deer and birds, as well as both brown and black bears (both at a safe distance).  Whether Marcel was pointing out bear claw marks on a tree or leading extended conversations ranging from animal overpasses to Sao Paulo’s water crisis, it was an extremely informative and educational visit.  
In addition to some spectacular hikes in both the main park and Many Glaciers, our timing coincided with a lunar eclipse which we chose to watch from the highest pass in the park on the Going to the Sun Road.  We thought this was a pretty original idea heading up to 8000 feet especially with the gusty wind and cold temperatures that had set in, however, we were accompanied by many other eager celestial gazers which added to the excitement of the event.  The sheer awesomeness of our Earth never ceases to amaze me as we watched the full round moon slowly but completely blacken and then reassuringly return to its bright and healthy glow.  Our final Glacier adventure, following the suggestions of a friend, was a drive to the tiny and quirky outpost of Polebridge, population probably totaling less than 75, where we enjoyed a variety of delicious baked goods from their one and only store which also leads a double life as a delectable bakery.
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While we could have happily spent many days in Missoula, biking around the cute town, enjoying the abundant bounty from Marcel and Bethany’s garden and getting even more precious time with our dear friend Carolyn Wiley from camp who gave the boys a fantastic visit at the Missoula Insectarium where she works, we felt the need to continue on westward to ultimately try to beat the snow in our travels.  Driving parallel to Lewis and Clark’s route gave us several opportunities through Idaho and Washington to camp near and explore the same area seen by their expedition close to 160 years earlier.  It also gave us the benefit of hiking to some beautiful hot springs in Idaho which was a perfect break in the drive and a total hit and highlight for all four of us.  It was not long after our nature bath that we successfully crossed into the furthest state west we could possibly hit on this trajectory and noticed a complete and drastic change in the landscape. Leaving the green and vibrant tree-covered hills, we entered the dry rolling plains of eastern Washington known as the Scablands.  While some people might think of this area as barren, I completely enjoyed a very beautiful and hilly run one morning looking out across the land as far as the eye could see trying to take it all in.  The diversity and magnificence of our country’s geographical landscape continues to take my breath away on a daily basis and I’m so happy that we are able to really explore our beautiful homeland with our boys.  On that note, we made sure to explore a little gem in this area known as Palouse Falls, which is also known most impressively and interestingly, (as I was informed by my boys), as the highest waterfall (198 feet) ever ridden successfully by a kayaker.  No kidding, see following link for proof!  ​
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Explanation of our departure and bicycle debacle

10/6/2015

 
A few people are still curious as to what really happened to our bikes the first day of our trip, so I thought I would clear that up for anyone still wondering.  Let me backtrack a little to August to help put the story in context.  Did I mention that things were a little busy?

Our shipment from Dubai was scheduled to arrive at my parents towards the end of the summer, so Ryan and I knew we needed to head down to Connecticut right after camp finished.  In addition to collecting the gear for our cross country trip, we had to store the rest of our 61 boxes. (Yes, you read correctly, that was 61 different items shipped from Dubai.  I truly have no idea what exactly is in all these boxes and am even more positive that there is nothing we need in those boxes, but they are now nicely tucked away in my loving parents’ attic.)  We also needed to buy a generator, complete Ethan’s 1st communion with a family gathering and bonus Willie Nelson concert, and attend the fantastic wedding of Amy and Rags’ in the Berkshires.  But this was all trivial to our most important responsibility which was to connect the camper van to the fifth wheel hitch that had just been newly installed onto our brand new, (to us), F250 turbo diesel 6.7, (note the new trucker talk lingo).  Then, more importantly, we had to practice driving the colossally large Bumble/Careyvan duo before we left, and, oh, did I mention also get a license plate for the Careyvan too?
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And then there were some additional details like finishing up some interior decorating of our new “deluxe” home, which is, in reality, the first home we ever really owned (perhaps not exactly the home our parents had imagined for us twenty years ago when we got married but a start none the less!).  Then, we had to get it classroom ready, store all the new gear, clothes and food, and of course, find a way to bring our mountain bikes, a key component of how we wanted to explore the west. On that last note, we had called around to a few places trying to find a welder that could attach a hitch but no one was either free, able, or willing. We had tried to buy a bike attachment online but the order was backordered and would not be available for several weeks.   We were starting to run short of time to our planned departure date of September 1st which was  being strongly adhered to by my dear, sweet, and very determined Ryan.  And so with some dutiful Google research, Ryan bought the components necessary to attach our bikes to the Careyvan the day before our departure.  
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Bright and early the next day, Ryan attached the new bike rack and then started working on unrolling the awning with Biff.  (It got conveniently stuck open the first time we opened it.)  I followed up and started trying to fit the four bikes on the bike rack with the help of Ethan.  If you’ve ever done this before you would appreciate that it is no easy task to try to fit four different sized bikes onto a bike rack.  Ethan would lift one on, I would try the next, we would both lift another one together, we would rearrange and try again.  Good times.  Several hours later, bikes attached, awning retracted, and all systems loaded, we jumped into the Bumble/Careyvan combo to begin our first 10 hour drive to Cleveland.  We were feeling pretty good, everything seemed to look really solid, and even Biff reviewed the system and gave us the thumbs up.  Five hour later after driving through the bouncy, windy roads of Vermont into New York we made our first official gas stop.  It did not take long before we  rounded the back of the Careyvan and discovered there were no more bikes on the back of the Careyvan.  It was that quick.  Instead we found a bedraggled bike rack tilting unsteadily at a forty-five degree angle to the ground, with several of the straps missing.  Since all of our bikes had been nicely locked together, they had a quick death getting ripped off the rack in one fell swoop somewhere along the highway in VT or NY.  NY State Trooper McDaniel officially sealed the deal with a police report of our four lost bikes tragically taking place on the first day of our transcontinental homeschooling family gap year.  Knowing I would one day find this comical, I did take some pictures to remember the event…….
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Wow Wyoming

10/3/2015

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Our first stop in Wyoming was in Teton National Park, and while Yellowstone was spectacular in its natural beauty, the Teton Peaks certainly hold their own with a combination of magnificence and intimidation capturing the eyes all at once.  We were luckily meeting our good friend John Williams, current resident in the area, at the trailhead of Lupine Meadows for an afternoon hike.  While John is a former student and advisee of Ryan’s from our days at Gilman, he has become a close friend over the years, co-working with Ryan at Deerwood in the summers.   The beautiful thing about meeting up with a ‘local’ is that they know the inside treasures of an area and John met up to these hopes and took us up to a secret location known as Delta Lake, a turquoise colored gem just a little more than four miles up the trail tucked exquisitely between the largest of the Tetons.  The switch back trails in the west
are a nice change from the east coast "direct line straight up the mountain" ones, and even better are the beautiful views and vistas that exist along the entire trail line.  You truly don’t have to wait until you reach the summit for the spectacular photo op.  But with this territory comes cold weather in the evenings and as the sun started hiding behind the peaks, the boys found a wee bit of hidden snow to throw a few snowballs before we headed back down the mountain for a delicious burger at Liberty in Jackson. 
 
The next two days John took us mountain biking up Cache Creek, climbing at Rodeo Wall, and then more mountain biking up Munger Mountain.  All of us thrived off of John’s innate enthusiasm combined with the very rewarding vistas earned by some  intensely aerobic exercise biking up seemingly never ending steep ascents.  
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I also enjoyed some new decorative bruises and scrapes much thanks to my extremely new and unfortunately very tight bike pedals.  Yes, that is right. I was feeling quite optimistic when purchasing our new bikes thinking there was no better time than the present to challenge myself with clipless pedals, otherwise known as pedals that never let go of your feet.  Unfortunately eager and optimistic didn’t exactly equal expert in ability or even slightly average, since I couldn’t even seem to get my feet detached even while pedaling in the parking lot never mind rocky, narrow, steep, single track trails.  So, that led to some very interesting moments being attached to my bike upside down in the woods, unable to release, unable to get up, unable to move at all. Good times, but all was quickly remedied as soon as we hit a bike shop and I learned that I could loosen the clips to make for easier releasing.  Good to know.
So, it felt like life had come full circle as we spent three days with John based out of his house, getting a chance to see him in his new job.  It was not too long ago that John was coming over to our house for lunch breaks as a high school student, and while I suppose that means we are getting older, it feels good and rewarding all the same to see connections made as teachers form into meaningful friendships.  Which segues nicely into our next destination which took place in Daniel, Wyoming.   ​
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Sixteen years ago Ryan and I had left our first teaching job at the Verde Valley School to head to Malaysia and had not seen our former friends and colleagues Kevin and Amy Warren since we left.  And yet, it is reassuring in the best of ways to be able to pick up right where we left off, and the Warren’s warmly welcomed us in to their beautiful home located in the high plains of Wyoming.  As Grant and Ethan both mention in their blogs, Kevin gave them the time of their lives showing them how to be cowboys and according to Grant and Ethan, the current plan is for us to move to Wyoming and buy ourselves some horses.  ​
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